Alice Norman, head chef and owner of Pinch in Suffolk, has evolved her concept into a café after four successful years on the regenerative and organic Maple Farm. The newly unveiled Pinch 2.0 is now open in a larger, purpose-built space, with indoor and outdoor seating, a new menu, and a drinks list for the first time. Pinch embraces a relaxed, no-fuss, no-cutlery approach, featuring Roman-style pizzas, frozen slushies, cocktails, and wine, in addition to its much-loved bakery offering of coffee, crullers, pastries, and gelato. Built around the soil-centric farm where she’s based, locality is at the forefront of everything Alice creates at Pinch, championing the produce of her home county,
Suffolk.
Alice says, “After working in the London restaurant scene for nearly a decade, Pinch gave me the opportunity to live out any chef’s dream - being on a farm, right next to the produce we use. Being limited by what is available locally has pushed me to be more creative, but everything starts with Maple Farm and what’s growing right under my feet. Expanding Pinch from a takeaway pastry shop into a proper café has also made the space more adaptable. Once we’re settled, I have plans to host evenings on the farm with chef friends from across the UK, something I feel is missing in the area!”
Nestled in a quiet area of rural Suffolk, where Alice grew up, Pinch burst onto the scene in 2021 when Alice moved home from London, where she had been head chef of Woodhouse Restaurant Group’s Emilia. Finding the perfect home on Maple Farm, which as pioneers of regenerative organic farming practises and agroforestry farm hand in hand with nature, she quickly established a reputation for her farm-to-table pastries. Alice works closely with the farmers to ensure she sources everything she can from them, from the abundant fruit and vegetables to the organic, free-range eggs and flour. The farmers grow ancient, traditional and modern wheat varieties in the surrounding fields, which are then stone-milled on the farm using an Osttiroler mill imported from Austria. This technique retains the crucial nutrients. Alice takes inspiration from her surroundings, and with each dish she tells the story of Suffolk, championing local suppliers such as local butcher Salter & King, Orford’s beloved chocolate shop Pump St, and Bungay’s Fen Farm Dairy, the home of Baron Bigod.
Where necessary, ingredients are sourced further afield; tinned tomatoes come from a farm between Rome and Naples, and olive oil from ‘Poggiotondi’ Winery in Tuscany.
Alice’s philosophy of keeping things local has led to smarter and more imaginative cooking and her pizzas are a clear example. Unlike Neapolitan and New York-style pizza, Roman pizza is cooked in a tray at a much lower temperature for 10-12 minutes, resulting in a crispy bottom. To facilitate this, Alice has invested in a Castelli pizza oven, built in Rome by experts in the field. Pizza toppings at Pinch will reflect the seasons, with Potato & Rosemary; Tomato, parsley & garlic; and Tomato, Fior di
Latte, Sobrassada, Basil & Parmesan currently on offer. Of course, the crullers and homemade gelato Alice has become known for are not going anywhere. Core flavours are Cinnamon Sugar, Coffee & Hazelnut, Chocolate, Honey & Bacon and Original Glazed and seasonality is brought into the fold with Rhubarb in spring, Elderflower & Pistachio in summer, Plum & Blackberry in autumn and Fig Leaf & Black Sesame in winter. Pinch’s signature pastry, the ‘St. Choux’ Choux Au Craquelin, made with St
Jude custard, is always on the counter. And, there are always specials around the holidays, such as Hot Cross Maritozzi Buns, Grilled Pump St Hot Cross Buns with St Jude’s Cow’s Curd and Pinch Lemon Curd or Grilled Pump Street Panettone with Marmalade and Nutty Wells Alpine Cheese. Throughout summer, Mint Choc Chip, St Jude and Blackcurrant Ripple, Fior de Latte and Coffee gelato are served in homemade farm-grown spelt cones, and the Pinch products in the farm shop will also remain stocked up with Whipped Cod’s Roe, Bolognese, Granola, Picante Crunch, and Almond Chilli Chaat.
The introduction of alcoholic beverages for the very first time means there will be a small wine list available to have in or to take away, focusing on independent producers supplied by Newcomer, Tutto and Unchartered Wines. William Kendal will supply cider from Maple Farm, and the concise spirits list including a Bloody Mary with spicy Maple Farm celery, a bitter Americano on ice from Chinati Vergano in Piemonte, and a rotating seasonal special which will be developed with the farm team, who have introduced exciting ingredients into their growing plans, such as lemongrass and shiso. There is also a frozen slushie machine with rotating non-alc drinks specials, which adds to the inventive approach to the menu - think Fig Leaf Shrub and Oat Milk Flat White.
Pinch 2.0 is now open at Maple Farm, East Green, Kelsale, Saxmundham IP17 2PL, with 8 seats inside and 44 seats outside.
14/Oct/2024 12:42